Fashion’s Financial Reality: Gary Bigeni on the Cost of the Runway
The eponymous label founder reflects on the challenges of Australian Fashion Week, the industry’s shifting landscape, and his commitment to diversity.
The Price of a Show
A standard show at Australian Fashion Week (AFW) costs between A$25,000 and A$40,000 — and that is considered a minimal budget without special effects.
For small independent brands, the financial burden doesn't end there. Securing appointments with buyers and press after the show has become increasingly difficult. Sales opportunities have declined compared to 10–15 years ago, with fewer international buyers attending the event.
An Industry Transformed
Fast fashion and social media have fundamentally reshaped the fashion world. Bigeni noted that digital lookbooks have replaced physical samples for buyer meetings, and the traditional fashion calendar is no longer strictly followed.
"You need to know what you want out of it — whether that’s building the brand or securing good press."
Diversity on the Runway
Bigeni prioritizes representation across sizing, age, gender, and ability. He stated that the industry has "reverted to a narrow aesthetic," a trend he actively resists.
"The industry has reverted to the standard tall, thin, white aesthetic. I want to design for women of all sizes and let them know they are seen and valued."
His commitment is data-driven: his top-selling sizes are 12, 14, and 16, which reinforce his focus on inclusive design.
A 23-Year Journey
Bigeni studied at Sydney Institute of Technology from 2000 to 2002 and presented a student collection at AFW in 2003. He was mentored by boutique owner Belinda Seper, who advised him to establish a core strength before expanding.
"My goal is longevity, not chasing seasonal trends."
Now, after 23 years running his label, Bigeni also teaches at the University of Technology Sydney. His AFW 2026 collection was inspired by the resilience of women, featuring draping, hand painting, and bright colors.
Advice to New Designers
Bigeni offers practical guidance for those entering the industry:
- Build a strong portfolio
- Trust your instincts
- Be realistic about financial realities
He emphasizes sustainability and refreshing core pieces rather than constantly creating entirely new products.
Overcoming Setbacks
A shipment of samples was stolen before a previous show, requiring them to be remade in time. Bigeni noted the emotional impact of such challenges.
"There have been plenty of times where I’ve thought about throwing in the towel, but I refuse to let setbacks overshadow everything I’ve built and achieved."
The interview was conducted before AFW 2026 and published alongside photos of the runway and backstage.