The Rise of Foam: From the Track to the Street
A shift is underway in footwear, moving from the running track to the red carpet. Celebrities like Aubrey Plaza, Harry Styles, and Zendaya have been spotted in foam-based sneakers from brands such as Hoka, New Balance, and On. Zendaya recently launched her third shoe for On, the Cloudnova Moon, described as a low-profile, crisscross ballerina style with velcro straps.
Fashion is reportedly shifting toward low-profile and retro runners, according to Lucila Saldana, a footwear and accessories strategist at WGSN.
Market Trends & Innovation
The trend is fueled by running club culture and collaborations between performance and fashion brands, like Hoka's releases with Marni and Comme des Garçons. Consumer demand is driving innovation.
John DiZane, senior director of buying at Foot Locker Australia, stated that customers are demanding more footwear innovation. Desirable features now include responsive foam, high stack heights, and embedded carbon or nylon plates.
This "super shoe" technology was popularized by Nike's 2017 ZoomX Vaporfly 4%, which features a carbon-fibre plate. The performance impact is significant: nine of the ten fastest marathon runs in history have been achieved by athletes wearing these shoes.
Expert Analysis: Function vs. Fashion
While the technology offers benefits, experts highlight important considerations for performance and everyday wear.
Eoin Doyle, an exercise physiologist, noted that high-stack shoes can be unstable and decrease lateral stability. However, Daniel Bonanno, Associate Professor in podiatry, stated that some high-stacked shoes have wider bases and higher-density foams, which can create a more stable platform.
Bonanno added that trampoline-like foam can reduce pressure on feet, which may benefit people with certain types of foot pain. Conversely, people who pronate or supinate may find that ultra-soft foam exaggerates issues as it tends to collapse over time.
Durability & Long-Term Impact
Durability is a key factor. Doyle noted that foamy sneakers are often lightweight but may not be designed for longevity, with some carbon-fibre plated styles lasting around 500km.
Ali Ball, a journalist at Runner's World UK, referenced a 2023 study that found EVA foam retained approximately 67% of initial shock-absorbing capacity after 160 to 240km, but less than 60% after 400 to 800km.
Research on everyday use is limited, though runners report lower muscle soreness and better recovery with super shoes. Recent studies also report increased pain felt by slower runners and increased loading in the knees when using them.
Recommendations for Wearers
Experts advise a measured approach to integrating these shoes into your wardrobe.
John DiZane suggested that carbon-plated fast running shoes probably shouldn't be used for lifestyle purposes.
Daniel Bonanno recommended switching up footwear choices to avoid overloading different parts of the body, unless someone has an injury where a specific shoe provides relief.