Residents Continue Living in Beijing Hutongs as Neighborhoods Evolve

A Life in the Hutong: A Couple’s Forty-Year Home in Beijing

Ma Peizeng and Wu Xiuhua, both 73, have lived in the same 23-square-meter home in Beijing's Dafangjia Hutong for four decades. Their residence offers a glimpse into a traditional form of urban living that endures amidst the city's vast redevelopment.

Their dwelling is part of a shared courtyard in the Dongcheng district, inside Beijing's second ring road and near landmarks like Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City. The home is narrow, measuring less than two meters wide in some sections, and lacks plumbed sewerage.

The couple rents the government-owned property for 440 yuan (approximately $90) annually.

To manage without a private bathroom, they use public facilities scattered throughout the hutong and keep a portable toilet at home, which they empty daily. Seven families originally lived around the courtyard; three have since moved to apartments.

Hutongs are networks of alleyways linking traditional courtyard residences in Beijing. Some districts date back to the 13th-century Yuan dynasty. By the mid-20th century, many of these courtyards were subdivided into smaller living quarters.

During Beijing's modernization drive, approximately 80% of hutongs were demolished to make way for roads and modern amenities, with many families relocated to high-rise complexes on the city's outskirts.

The remaining hutongs have become tourist attractions, showcasing traditional architecture. Some areas have evolved, with boutique shops, restaurants, and art galleries opening. Some expatriates have moved into renovated courtyards.

The couple's neighborhood sits adjacent to modern developments like the Galaxy Soho shopping complex. Local retirees often socialize and play mah-jong on nearby footpaths.

Despite the modest conditions, the couple has deep roots in their community. Ma Peizeng described growing up during a period of famine and participating in the "Up to the Mountains and Down to the Countryside" movement.

"We never thought about moving to another place. As long as it doesn't get demolished, we would stay here. It's down to earth," Ma stated.

Wu Xiuhua summarized their philosophy simply: "Contentment is happiness."

While they have purchased an apartment on Beijing's outskirts, they continue living in the hutong to be near their grandson's school. They indicated they have "almost completed our mission" regarding his education and upbringing.

Historical Note: There are rumors that their courtyard was once home to a Kuomintang military official who fled to Taiwan in 1949.