Jim Whittaker, First American to Summit Everest, Dies at 97

Jim Whittaker, the celebrated mountaineer and environmental advocate, died on Tuesday at age 97 at his home in Port Townsend, Washington. Whittaker was renowned as the first American to successfully summit Mount Everest.

He completed his historic ascent of Mount Everest in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu. This monumental achievement occurred a decade after the initial climb by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, significantly boosting interest in mountaineering in the U.S. and bringing Whittaker widespread public recognition.

Whittaker's 1963 climb of Mount Everest marked a pivotal moment for American mountaineering, inspiring a new generation of adventurers.

A Career of Leadership and Growth

Whittaker began his professional journey with the outdoor retailer REI in 1955 as its very first full-time employee. His dedication and vision led him to serve as its president and CEO from 1971 to 1979. During his impactful leadership, REI's membership experienced substantial growth, increasing from approximately 250,000 to over 900,000 members.

Championing Conservation

Beyond his climbing achievements, Whittaker was a prominent voice for environmental protection. He was widely recognized for his significant contributions to the establishment of key natural preserves. His advocacy played a role in the creation of North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, as well as Redwood National Park in California.

Beyond the Peaks: Friendships and Expeditions

Whittaker maintained a close friendship with Robert Kennedy, and the two shared a memorable climb of a 14,000-foot Canadian peak. Following Kennedy's tragic death in 1968, the peak was subsequently named Mount Kennedy in his honor.

Born in Seattle, Whittaker's passion for climbing began in the 1940s alongside his twin brother, Lou Whittaker. His leadership extended to international diplomacy, as he led the 1990 Mount Everest International Peace Climb, an ambitious endeavor involving climbers from the U.S., the Soviet Union, and China. Another testament to his inspiring spirit was leading 10 handicapped climbers up Mount Rainier in 1981. Whittaker himself scaled Mount Rainier more than 100 times throughout his life.

Legacy and Family

Jim Whittaker is survived by his wife of 52 years, Dianne Roberts, his sons Bob, Joss, and Leif Whittaker, three grandchildren, and one great-grandchild. His twin brother, Lou Whittaker, passed away in 2024 at age 95.