Demna's Debut for Gucci Unveils a Bold New Direction
Demna, known mononymously, presented his initial collection for Gucci during Milan Fashion Week. The collection showcased a blend of skin-tight silhouettes and classic influences, featuring short and tight dresses, tinsel hair extensions, and items that included both avant-garde and conventional elements.
Demna articulated a vision for Gucci centered on "energy, passion, fun and sex," aiming to restore the brand's cultural relevance by drawing inspiration from early Renaissance art and underground culture.
Collection Highlights: Skin-Tight Silhouettes and Classic Influences
The collection featured designs characterized by skin-tight silhouettes, including white minidresses, clean muscle T-shirts, and slim trousers and tops for men. For women, leggings with long clingy dresses were presented. An asymmetrical white dress draped and featured a full slit.
Elements such as tinsel hair extensions and a diamante G-string were observed. The show concluded with Kate Moss wearing a glittering evening gown with a low back, revealing a double-G-branded thong.
The collection also incorporated items that paid tribute to Alessandro Michele, such as a floral gown, a daysuit with a pussybow, and furry slip-on shoes. Traditional Gucci overcoats, suits, and overt branding received less emphasis. More conventional items, including high-waisted jeans, leather tailoring, and a navy peacoat, were also featured. Archetypes referenced included the "sciura," representing Milanese upper-class women, and the "maranza," characterizing suburban males.
Designer's Vision: 'Energy, Passion, Fun and Sex' for Gucci
Demna titled his first Gucci runway show "Primavera" (Italian for "spring"). He stated the collection was "built around a sense of pragmatism" and expressed a desire for Gucci to be "lighter, softer, more refined, more elaborate, more emotional, even senseless sometimes," aiming for it to be "a feeling" rather than intellectual. He emphasized that his vision for Gucci involves the coexistence of heritage and fashion.
Demna specified his intention for Gucci, describing his vision as encompassing 'energy, passion, fun and sex,' stating this direction deviates from general expectations of his design style, which sometimes included oversized bomber jackets with monograms.
He cited Sandro Botticelli's early Renaissance paintings as inspiration for his work, explaining a desire to restore Gucci's cultural relevance by drawing from underground culture. He stated that he now has the freedom to create from an emotional perspective at Gucci and indicated an increase in personal well-being. Some items from the collection were made available for immediate purchase.
Gucci's Financial Future: A Pivotal Moment for Kering
Gucci's financial performance holds significance for its parent group, Kering, and the broader luxury industry. Historically, periods of success for Gucci have been associated with distinct design approaches, such as those under Tom Ford or Alessandro Michele. The tenure of Sabato De Sarno, who preceded Demna, was noted as a period perceived as cautious. Prolonged underperformance by Gucci, a significant revenue source, has impacted Kering's overall strength and capacity to invest in other brands.
Demna's appointment has been associated with a positive market reaction. Recent reports indicated a smaller-than-expected decrease in Gucci's sales, with a 3% decline in the last quarter of the previous year after a 4% decline in the period prior. This news coincided with a 15% increase in Kering's share price. The long-term impact of Demna's creative direction on Gucci's future is pending observation.
Show Production and Notable Attendees
Invitations for the show were presented in velvet-padded jewelry boxes, labeled as Gucci 'by Demna,' a branding decision that was noted within the industry as a deviation from traditional branding. During the catwalk presentation, a model was observed scrolling on a phone, and some models exhibited a casual or provocative demeanor.
Front-row guests included Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton, Donatella Versace, Demi Moore, Emily Ratajkowski, and Kate Moss.
Designer's Background
Demna's career includes work at Balenciaga, where he presented critically acclaimed shows, such as one referencing his refugee experience. He also faced public criticism for certain advertising campaigns, specifically advertisements featuring teddy bears in bondage.