John Interlandi: A 90-Year Legacy in Australian Cheesemaking

John Interlandi, a 90-year-old great-grandfather, continues his work as a cheesemaker in Australia. He operates alongside his 30-year-old grandson, Michael, upholding a family tradition. Mr. Interlandi has expressed no interest in retirement, remaining active on the family farm and at the Europa Cheese factory in Pakenham, Melbourne.

Mr. Interlandi has expressed no interest in retirement, remaining active on the family farm and at the Europa Cheese factory.

Early Roots in Gippsland

Born in Korumburra, south-east of Melbourne, Mr. Interlandi was raised on a dairy farm within the local Italian community. His father, an Italian migrant, arrived in Australia in the late 1920s and, with two others, bought and developed 121 hectares of land. They initially farmed potatoes before transitioning to dairy. Mr. Interlandi recounted a life of constant farm work, including land clearing, fencing, and hand-milking cows, noting that while life was simple, they ate well.

Forging a Niche: The Rise of Italian Cheese

Italian migrants initially came to Gippsland in the mid-1800s and early 1900s for jobs in goldfields and coal mines. Following World War II, a significant wave of agricultural laborers, primarily potato and dairy farmers, settled in Gippsland due to economic hardship in Europe. With limited availability of continental cheeses and a growing European migrant population desiring varieties like pecorino and parmesan, Mr. Interlandi's father began making cheese from boiled milk. This practice was spurred by low payments for milk from local factories.

From Family Craft to Public Palate

After his father's passing, Mr. Interlandi continued cheesemaking to support his family, supplying local delicatessens and the migrant community. Food historian Tania Cammarano highlighted that Italian cheese, initially labeled 'fancy cheese,' gained popularity in Australia after the 1950s. This was supported by the establishment of Italian restaurants in the 1920s and 30s, and the publication of Australia's first Italian cookbook in 1937. By 1952, 'fancy cheese' debuted as a category at the Royal Melbourne Show, indicating increased consumer awareness.

Europa Cheese: Growth and Expansion

In 1971, Mr. Interlandi and his wife Jackie obtained a factory license. They established Europa Cheese with a factory and shopfront in Hawthorn, primarily selling wheels of pecorino and parmesan. After 16 years, operations moved to a larger facility in Dandenong, producing up to 4 tonnes of cheese weekly for distribution across all states except Tasmania. By the 1990s, Australia's burgeoning 'foodie movement' and interest in Italian travel contributed to the rising popularity of various cheeses, including ricotta and grated parmesan.

A Lasting Legacy in Australian Food

Europa Cheese relocated from Dandenong to Pakenham in 2005, supplying grated cheese to companies such as Patties and Heinz. Mr. Interlandi observes a contemporary market preference for Australian and local products over imported goods. Although the Europa brand was sold in November 2025, Mr. Interlandi remains dedicated to the 'slow art' of cheesemaking and sharing his knowledge, aiming for perfect quality in every cheese he produces.